Finished Truffle Dress

With only one "hiccup" I got my Truffle dress completed today. And regarding that hiccup, make sure your zipper is not twisted before you begin to sew the second side of said zipper. The alterations I made to the back bodice seem to be working out just right, thanks to my muslins!

Truffle Dress sewn in a microfiber polyester.
I used a rolled hem on the flounce and the dress hem - I thought it would be the easiest.

Truffle Dress back with invisible zipper

Truffle Dress side view

Flounce rolled hem

This dress went together very easily, IMOP, the fabric I chose to use didn't fray too badly before I could get the edges serged or pinked. The Colette Sewing Handbook's instructions are very clear, I have to say that I am learning new techniques while working my way through this book. I am going to remember the techique for sewing together the shell fabric and lining.

The fabric seems like it will drape nicely and be a nice lightweight fabric for summer. I like the print and have lots of it left but unfortunately it doesn't take dye, so, I guess I have an excuse to get some of those fabric paint pens :)

I will be linking up to the flickr group for the sew-along at Rhinestones and Telephones.

I have really enjoyed doing this sew-along, it has kept me motivated to keep sewing and have deadlines to get things done. I have already sewn my Meringue Skirt and my Pastille Dress, now I just need to wait for the nicer weather to stick around long enough that I can get these worn.

I wish you the best of luck and inspiration in your sewing.

Truffle Muslin with Alterations

As I showed in my previous Truffle muslin post, I needed to make some alteration to the back bodice of my dress. I was able to get my alterations made and they seem to have solved my problems (with this dress).

horrible picture but when I have to use a bookcase and camera timer, I guess this is what I get :)
What isn't very visible in this picture it that the back bodice is much more fitted now.
I am going to add back in about half an inch to the length of both the back and front bodice, the waist is just a bit high.

on my original muslin the side seam was gaping and not matching up right - obviously my mistake but I needed extra out of the back anyways so I took out some of the extra width at the side seam. I pinned out the extra on the back bodice only.

As I noticed in my first muslin post the back neckline was gaping so I measured in one inch from the stitching line and used my french curve to mark a new stitching line from this one inch point down to the original waist line.

A better view of the alterations I made to my pattern piece

I hope to get started on my fashion fabric version - I am looking forward to the "drapey" fabric even if it is a little scary to work with the slippery fabric. Good luck and Blessed Be, Alyssa

Truffle Muslin

I was able to get my Truffle muslin sewn up over the weekend and did find some fitting issues; which reminds me that I do always need to do a muslin. I think I am going to like this dress alot assuming I can get it to feel like it fits right. I did a SBA and shortened the bodice. The fashion fabric I am going to use is a microfiber polyester that seems like it will drape nicely. The lining will be some lightweight white cotton from my stash also. 

"Fashion" fabric

Truffle Front

Truffle Back is baggy so I am going to be taking some of it in; I'll do a post on my alterations.

Not the best view but a side view of the neck gaping on the back and it looks
 like I need to address the armhole gaping there.

Just an FYI: I used PicMonkey.com to do a little photo editing - looks like a very cool website & I plan to use it again.

Truffle progress

I am working on the next sew-along dress, the Truffle. I wasn't really planning on it but found this fabric in my stash and knew it would be perfect for this dress. It is a microfiber polyester that isn't too sheer, thankfully. I still need to figure out a fabric for the lining; I'm afraid a trip to Mankato or or an online fabric order will have to be made, unless I use quilting cotton. Well, I hope others are having better luck with their dresses. Blessed Be.

Piped Pastille

Needs a pressing but TA-DA!

I'm finally getting a chance to blog about my finished Pastille!

As mentioned before I added piping to my Pastille in the neckline, the sleeves, and used piping instead of doing the pleats on the skirt. After much debate I decided to use a french blue cotton lycra poplin from my stash, it seems to have enough body but the stretch will be nice for some extra ease. The piping on the skirt is a little stiff so I am debating how to fix it - as you can see the picture, it kinda sticks out. I am considering serging off some of the excess on the inside of the skirt. Any thoughts?

I made bias tape with an off white cotton from my stash using the tutorial here. Though the Coletterie has a post also, I just didn't come across this one first when I was double checking that I was doing it right.

Stitching the piping to the skirt.

I had sewn the back seam up from the hem to the large dot for the zipper to make sure everything would line up correctly. I folded the "pleat" to the inside of the skirt and pressed the lines to give me a visible line on the right side of the fabric. I then un-picked the back seam at the new pleat/piping lines I had adjusted for the piping. I pin basted the piping on with the cut edge of the bias tape going into the fold. I stitched the piping onto one side of the fold as seen in above picture. I went back and folded the "pleat" over the piping to enclose the tape (I now wish I had trimmed the bias tape down) and stitched again as close to the piping as I could, using my zipper foot. As seen below the piping worked quite nicely. I made sure to pull out the cording from the piping and trimmed it down so it wouldn't be caught in the seam before I re-stitched the back seam.

Back seam turned out pretty good.

Skirt with piping, I need to re-stitch the hem with a matching thread.

Back - needs a good pressing.

Bodice with SBA.

I like the fit of the dress but I think the piping in the sleeves makes the sleeves stick out more than they are supposed to, giving it a shoulder pad look. I am planning on unpicking the underarm seam so I can pull the cording out of the piping. I think doing that will loosen it up enough that it doesn't stick out from my shoulder quite so much but will leave the white edge to match the neckline and skirt detailing.

Upper back - I used an invisible zipper, much easier to install than a regular one! Still need to sew on a hook and eye.

So this is my version of the Pastille. I feel like I learned some things and added to my sewing repertoire. I am eagerly awaiting the warmer weather.

Pastille muslin

Pastille muslin front view

I finally got my muslin sewn up last night! It went together very quickly and easily. I didn't sew in the pleats on the skirt, I was more interested in seeing if my bodice alterations were correct.Which I am pleased to say that the bodice fits nearly perfectly!

Pastille muslin front view

I didn't use any facings since this is just a muslin. I used a couple pieces of old sheets for the fabric since I am not worried about having a wearable muslin.

Pastille muslin side view

As you can see though the waist seem isn't quite level there on the side - any suggestions? I am thinking of just taking up the side seam that 1/4"-1/2" to level it up but then again maybe I will just lengthen the front bodice in front the 1/2" or so since it looks like the front is the only one having the problem, don't need to create problems with the back bodice.

Pastille muslin back view

I used a regular zipper but will use an invisible zipper on my final, they are so much cleaner looking and easier to install.

Well, the hubby is occupied and the kids seem to be as well, so I think I'm going to try sneaking down to the sewing room to work on my final adjusments and see if I can get my Pastille sewn up. So excited!

Pastille Dress Alterations

Updated 6:30 2/15/2012

I am short waisted, very short waisted. My back waist length is 14.5", I've even had my measurement checked by a much more experienced seamstress/pattern designer (Cynthia Guffey). She didn't believe me that my measurement was correct until she measured it herself & had to agree that I am that short waisted.
So with the Pastille dress I needed to find the back waist length & make my usual adjustment. Upon measuring the back bodice piece, which measured 16.5", I knew I needed to take up 2", which is very common for me.

Then on top of that I need to do a small bust adjustment since I am maybe an A cup, maybe.



Front Bodice with SBA and short torso adjustments

Back Bodice with short torso adjustment







I reviewed the SBA tutorials on Rhinestones & Telephones, The Slapdash Sewist, and Hungry Zombie Couture
I did my SBA then shortened the torso.
Oh and I am loving my tracing paper mentioned here it is working perfectly for all the alterations & tracing.
Well, hope everyone is having a good afternoon.
Blessed Be, Alyssa